ISOLE E OLENA — PERSONAL EXPERIENCE

We all have it. But what do we learn from it? The first time I met Paolo de Marchi, owner of Isole e Olena in Tuscany, I was an insignificant young wine seller working the floor in a shop in south Calgary. I’d recently tasted his Chianti Classico and had been astounded by its elegance […]
WORDS LIKE NO OTHER FOR CHÂTEAU DE SAINT COSME WINERY

With her, and Saint Cosme, having dinner, in Toronto She sat across the table, her usually carrot-red hair more copper in the candlelight. It’s not curly and big like a lot of hair that colour. Rather, it’s naturally pin-straight and falls well past her shoulders. That shimmer set off the tiny, bright, dancing squares of […]
PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO SHOWS CO-OPS DON’T HAVE TO SUCK BY DEFAULT

A lot has been written about Produttori and their superb wines. More than that, they’ve done it in the cooperative model which is infamous for medium- to low-quality wine. But Produttori del Barbaresco shows co-ops don’t have to suck by default. How? The short answer is “intention”. But it goes much deeper than that. First, […]
THE TURLEY ZINFANDEL PARADOX

I’m a traditional-wine-style guy. That means my taste and constitution lean toward the leaner side of weight with kaleidescopic aromatics. Think of great Ontario Chardonnay or perfect Chianti Classico. While I’ve enjoyed many a full-throttle bottle, that was in far younger years. I can no longer handle wines that are generous in everything but acidity and […]
WHERE LIES TRUTH, AND JUSTICE, AT BETHEL HEIGHTS VINEYARDS?

When you read about Bethel Heights‘ vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills in Oregon, you first find conflicting accounts of their agricultural suitability. You also read about romantically idealistic pastoral perfection… right next to Salem, where there were those trials. So, where lies truth, and justice, at Bethel Heights Vineyards? Here’s what we mean: *From Bethel Heights’ […]